EV vs Gas Car Cost Calculator
Compare the total cost of owning an electric car against a petrol one across purchase, depreciation, fuel, maintenance and insurance, and find the year the EV pulls ahead.
How to use this calculator
- 1Enter your real annual mileage and, more importantly, how long you actually keep cars. That second number decides the answer more than any price does.
- 2Set the two purchase prices for genuinely comparable vehicles — same class and trim — and be honest about the resale assumptions, since depreciation is the biggest line on both sides.
- 3Split your charging between home and public accurately. Someone without a driveway is running completely different economics from someone with a garage charger.
- 4Compare the crossover year against how long you will own the car. If the crossover is longer, the petrol car is cheaper for you regardless of what the fuel comparison says.
How the calculation works
Blended charging rate = home share x home rate + (1 − home share) x public rate
Electric energy cost = (miles ÷ 100) x kWh/100mi x blended rate
Petrol fuel cost = (miles ÷ mpg) x price per gallon
Annual running cost = fuel + maintenance + insurance
Depreciation = purchase price x (1 − resale share)
Total cost of ownership = depreciation + charger installation + annual running cost x years
Crossover (years) = (EV price + charger − petrol price) ÷ annual running saving- kWh/100mi
- The EPA’s efficiency measure for electric cars, analogous to litres per 100 km. Lower is better, unlike MPG
- Blended charging rate
- The weighted average price per kilowatt-hour across home and public charging — often the input that decides the whole comparison
- Depreciation
- Purchase price minus what the car is worth at the end. Usually the largest single cost of owning any car
- Crossover
- Years of running-cost savings needed to recover the higher purchase price, ignoring resale value
Two different comparisons are reported and they answer different questions. The crossover year works on cash actually spent and ignores resale, because a car you still own has not returned anything yet. The total cost of ownership includes resale, because at the end of the period you do get that money back.
The federal 30D new and 25E used clean vehicle credits ended for vehicles acquired after 30 September 2025, and 30C for home charging equipment ended for property placed in service after 30 June 2026. No federal incentive is applied anywhere in this calculation — enter prices net of any state, utility or manufacturer offer instead.
Financing is not modelled. If one car is financed and the other bought outright, or the loan terms differ, the interest difference can be comparable to the fuel difference and should be added to the annual running cost.
Worked example
12,000 miles a year for 8 years, $42,000 EV against a $34,000 petrol car
- 1.Electric energy: 12,000 ÷ 100 x 30 = 3,600 kWh a year. Blended rate: 0.85 x $0.1844 + 0.15 x $0.48 = $0.2287. Cost: $823.46.
- 2.Petrol: 12,000 ÷ 28 = 428.6 gallons at $4.10 = $1,757.14. The fuel saving alone is $933.68 a year.
- 3.Annual running cost: EV $823.46 + $600 + $2,200 = $3,623.46. Petrol $1,757.14 + $1,100 + $2,000 = $4,857.14. Saving: $1,233.68 a year.
- 4.Upfront gap: $42,000 + $1,200 − $34,000 = $9,200. Crossover: 9,200 ÷ 1,233.68 = 7.5 years.
- 5.Depreciation over 8 years: EV $42,000 x 60% = $25,200. Petrol $34,000 x 65% = $22,100.
- 6.Total: EV $25,200 + $1,200 + $28,987 = $55,387. Petrol $22,100 + $38,857 = $60,957.
- 7.The EV is $5,569 cheaper over eight years — but it only got there in year seven and a half.
Result: $5,569 cheaper over 8 years, crossing over at 7.5 years
Why the fuel comparison is the least interesting part
Almost every electric-versus-petrol comparison starts and ends with energy cost, and on that measure the argument is not close. An efficient electric car uses about 30 kilowatt-hours per hundred miles; at a residential rate of 18.44 cents that is roughly five and a half cents a mile. A petrol car at 28 mpg with fuel at $4.10 costs about fourteen and a half cents a mile. The electric car is around a third of the cost per mile.
The reason that does not settle anything is that fuel is not where most of the money goes. Over eight years and 96,000 miles, the example above spends about $6,600 on electricity or $14,000 on petrol — while losing $25,200 or $22,100 respectively in depreciation. The single largest cost of owning any car is the difference between what you paid and what you sell it for, and it is roughly double the fuel bill in both columns.
This is why the comparison so often comes out closer than either camp expects, and why it hinges on inputs that have nothing to do with energy: what the two cars cost, what they are worth in eight years, and how much your insurer charges.
Where an electric car genuinely wins on running cost
Beyond energy, two real structural advantages show up in the maintenance line, and one disadvantage.
- Far fewer things to service — no oil, no filters, no spark plugs, no timing belt, no exhaust system, no transmission fluid. A drivetrain with one moving part instead of several hundred simply has less that needs periodic attention.
- Brakes that barely wear — regenerative braking does most of the slowing by running the motor backwards as a generator. Friction pads on an EV routinely last two to three times as long, and the more common complaint is rust from disuse rather than wear.
- Tyres, going the other way — battery packs are heavy and electric motors deliver torque instantly, and both accelerate tyre wear. Many EVs also need specific low-rolling-resistance tyres that cost more. This eats a meaningful part of the maintenance saving.
- Insurance, also going the other way — EVs frequently cost more to insure. Repair costs are higher, fewer shops are certified to do the work, and a damaged battery pack can total a car that would have been repairable with a petrol drivetrain.
Charging at home versus charging in public
This single input moves the answer more than anything else on the page, and it is the one most comparisons treat as an afterthought.
Charging at home overnight costs the residential electricity rate — nationally around 18.44 cents a kilowatt-hour in mid-2026, and considerably less on an overnight time-of-use tariff, where 10 to 13 cents is common. Charging at a DC fast charger typically costs 40 to 60 cents a kilowatt-hour, sometimes with an idle fee on top. That is a factor of three, and at the top of that range an electric car costs about the same per mile as a reasonably efficient petrol one.
The practical consequence is that "should I buy an EV" is really two different questions depending on where you park. With a driveway and a charger, 85 to 90% of charging happens at the cheap rate and the running-cost advantage is large and reliable. Without off-street parking, the same car might charge 40% in public, the blended rate roughly doubles, and much of the case evaporates — which is a real and underdiscussed equity problem in EV adoption rather than a quirk of the arithmetic.
What changed for US buyers in 2025 and 2026
The federal incentive landscape for electric vehicles was dismantled over nine months, and any comparison built before mid-2025 is now wrong in the same direction.
The One Big Beautiful Bill Act, enacted 4 July 2025, terminated the Section 30D credit for new clean vehicles — worth up to $7,500 — and the Section 25E credit for used ones, worth up to $4,000, for vehicles acquired after 30 September 2025. The IRS interpreted "acquired" as paid for, so a binding contract and payment before 1 October preserved eligibility even where delivery came later, but nothing bought since qualifies.
Section 30C, the credit for home charging equipment worth 30% up to $1,000, ran a little longer and ended for property placed in service after 30 June 2026. As of the second half of 2026 there is no federal purchase or charging incentive for an ordinary household buying an electric car.
State and utility programmes are a separate matter and several remain substantial — California, Colorado, New York and others run their own rebates, and many utilities subsidise home charger installation or offer a dedicated EV tariff. Those belong in the price and charger fields above, which is why this calculator asks for a net figure rather than applying an incentive of its own.
The uncertainty that dominates everything else
Every figure in this calculation is knowable except one. Purchase prices are on a window sticker, energy costs are on a bill, insurance is a quote, and maintenance follows a schedule. Resale value in eight years is a forecast, and it is simultaneously the largest number in the comparison and the least reliable.
Electric vehicle depreciation has been steeper and considerably more volatile than petrol depreciation, for reasons that are specific to a technology still moving quickly: buyers discount older battery chemistry and slower charging, new model prices have been cut abruptly, and a used EV market that is still forming prices uncertainty into every transaction. The end of the federal used-EV credit removed a floor under used prices as well.
The honest way to handle this is not to pick a number and trust it, but to run the calculation twice — once with an optimistic resale assumption and once with a pessimistic one — and see whether the conclusion survives both. If the electric car wins at 30% residual and at 50% residual, the decision is robust. If it flips somewhere in between, then you are not really making a cost decision, you are making a bet on the used market, and it is better to know that.
What this assumes, and where it stops
Assumptions
- Annual mileage, energy prices, maintenance and insurance are constant across the whole ownership period.
- Charging splits between home and public at the fixed share entered, at two fixed rates.
- Resale value is a flat percentage of the purchase price at the end of the period, with no separate mileage adjustment.
- Financing is excluded. Both cars are treated as paid for outright, so any difference in loan terms or interest is not captured.
- No federal purchase or charging incentive is applied — 30D and 25E ended for vehicles acquired after 30 September 2025, and 30C for equipment placed in service after 30 June 2026.
Limitations
- Resale value is a forecast rather than a fact, it is the largest line in the comparison, and EV residuals have been unusually volatile. Run the calculation at two different resale assumptions before trusting the conclusion.
- Cold weather reduces EV efficiency by 15–30% and petrol economy by rather less. A single annual efficiency figure cannot capture that, and northern drivers should adjust the kWh/100mi input upward.
- Battery degradation and any out-of-warranty pack replacement are not modelled. Most packs are warranted for eight years or 100,000 miles, which is roughly the period this calculation covers.
- Charging time has a cost that does not appear here — both the convenience of waking to a full battery and the inconvenience of a road-trip stop are real and unpriced.
- Nothing here values emissions, local air quality, or the difference in where the energy comes from. This is a cost comparison only.
Common questions
Is an electric car actually cheaper than gas?
On fuel, almost always — roughly a third of the cost per mile when charging at home. On total cost of ownership it depends on the purchase price gap, how long you keep the car and what it is worth when you sell it. A typical eight-year comparison at current prices favours the EV by a few thousand dollars, but the crossover often does not arrive until year six or seven.
How many years does it take for an EV to pay for itself?
Divide the extra purchase and installation cost by the annual saving on fuel, maintenance and insurance. At a $9,200 upfront gap and $1,200 a year of savings, that is about seven and a half years. Higher mileage shortens it proportionally; a bigger price gap or heavy public charging lengthens it, sometimes past the point where you would sell the car.
Is there still a $7,500 EV tax credit?
No. The Section 30D credit for new clean vehicles and the 25E credit for used ones were both terminated for vehicles acquired after 30 September 2025 by the One Big Beautiful Bill Act. The 30C credit for home charging equipment ended for property placed in service after 30 June 2026. Several state and utility incentives continue and should be deducted from the prices you enter.
How much does it cost to charge an EV at home?
At the US average residential rate of 18.44 cents a kilowatt-hour, a car using 30 kWh per 100 miles costs about $5.53 per 100 miles, or five and a half cents a mile. On an overnight time-of-use tariff at 12 cents it drops to about three and a half cents. A DC fast charger at 48 cents costs roughly four times the off-peak home rate.
Do electric cars really cost less to maintain?
Yes on servicing, less so overall than the headline suggests. There is no oil, no filters, no plugs, no exhaust and no transmission service, and regenerative braking makes pads last two to three times longer. Against that, EVs are heavy and wear tyres faster, often on more expensive low-rolling-resistance sizes, and they typically cost more to insure. The net saving is real but smaller than "no oil changes" implies.
Sources
- Electric vehicle charging at home — US Department of Energy
- Vehicle cost calculator and fuel economy data — US Department of Energy Alternative Fuels Data Center
- Clean vehicle tax credits after recent legislation — Congressional Research Service
- Electric Power Monthly, Table 5.6.A — average retail price of electricity — US Energy Information Administration
- National average gas prices — AAA
Formula and content last reviewed on .
Results are estimates for information only, not professional advice.
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