Solar Panel Sizing Calculator

Work out how many solar panels and how many kilowatts your house needs to offset its electricity use, from your consumption, your sun hours and your roof orientation.

How to use this calculator

  1. 1Enter a full year of consumption rather than one month. Solar sizing is an annual-balance calculation and a single summer bill will mislead you badly.
  2. 2Pick your region for a first pass, then get a proper figure for your own address from NREL PVWatts and enter it under the custom option before you commit to anything.
  3. 3Be honest about shading. A single tree over one corner of the roof can cost more output than the difference between two regions, particularly on a string inverter without optimisers.
  4. 4If you are about to buy an electric car or replace a furnace with a heat pump, size above 100% now — adding panels later costs far more per watt than including them at the start.

How the calculation works

Yield per kW (kWh/yr) = peak sun hours x 365 x derate x orientation factor x (1 − shading loss) Array size (kW) = target annual kWh ÷ yield per kW Panel count = ceiling(array size x 1,000 ÷ panel watts) Actual generation = panel count x panel watts ÷ 1,000 x yield per kW Roof area needed = panel count x panel area x 1.25
Peak sun hours
Daily average hours of irradiance equivalent to 1,000 W/m² — the standard condition panels are rated at. Not hours of daylight
Derate factor
The share of rated output that survives inverter losses, wiring, soiling, heat, mismatch and downtime. PVWatts defaults to 14% losses, or 0.86
Orientation factor
Output relative to an ideally oriented south-facing array — 1.00 south, 0.85 east or west, 0.65 north
1.25
Roof area multiplier covering fire setbacks, service walkways, vents and plumbing stacks. Panels never tile a roof edge to edge

A peak sun hour is a unit of energy, not of time. Four peak sun hours means the day delivered as much energy as four hours at full test-condition intensity — which might be spread across ten hours of weak winter daylight or six hours of strong summer sun.

The panel count rounds up, never down, so the array meets or exceeds the target. That is why the achieved offset is usually slightly above the figure requested.

Higher-wattage panels do not produce more energy per square foot in any meaningful sense — a 450 W panel is physically larger or slightly more efficient than a 400 W one. What they change is the panel count and therefore the labour and racking cost, which is why installers favour them.

Worked example

A 12,000 kWh household in the Southeast, south-facing and unshaded

  1. 1.Target generation: 100% of 12,000 kWh = 12,000 kWh a year.
  2. 2.Yield per kW: 4.7 peak sun hours x 365 days x 0.86 derate x 1.00 orientation = 1,475 kWh per kW per year.
  3. 3.Array needed: 12,000 ÷ 1,475 = 8.13 kW.
  4. 4.Panels: 8,134 W ÷ 400 W = 20.3, rounded up to 21 panels — an 8.4 kW array.
  5. 5.Actual generation: 8.4 x 1,475 = 12,393 kWh, a 103% offset.
  6. 6.Roof: 21 x 21.5 = 452 sq ft of panel, needing about 564 sq ft of roof plane with setbacks.
  7. 7.Cost: 8,400 W x $3.00 = $25,200 before any state or utility incentive.

Result: 21 panels, an 8.4 kW array

What a peak sun hour actually is

Solar panels are rated under Standard Test Conditions: irradiance of 1,000 watts per square metre, a cell temperature of 25°C, and a defined atmospheric spectrum. A 400 W panel produces 400 W under exactly those conditions and less at any other time, which is nearly always.

A peak sun hour is the accounting device that makes this tractable. It is one hour at 1,000 W/m², so the day’s total solar energy divided by 1,000 gives the number of peak sun hours it delivered. A location with 4.7 peak sun hours does not get 4.7 hours of daylight — it might get fourteen in June and nine in December — but the total energy arriving over the year averages out to 4.7 full-strength hours a day.

The convenience of the unit is that it turns a complicated integral into a multiplication. Array kilowatts times peak sun hours times 365 gives annual kilowatt-hours before losses, and that is the entire sizing calculation.

Where the missing 14% goes

The single most common sizing mistake is dividing annual consumption by peak sun hours and 365 and stopping there. That ignores everything between the panel’s glass and the utility meter, which removes about a seventh of the output.

  • Inverter efficiencyconverting the panels’ direct current into the house’s alternating current costs 2–4%. Modern inverters are very good but not free.
  • Temperaturepanels lose roughly 0.3–0.4% of output per degree Celsius above 25°C, and a black panel in full sun on a roof runs far hotter than the air around it. In hot climates this is the largest single loss and it peaks exactly when generation would otherwise be highest.
  • Soilingdust, pollen, salt and bird droppings. Typically 2% in a wet climate and considerably more in a dry dusty one where months pass between rain.
  • Mismatch and wiringpanels in a string perform to the weakest among them, and current running through conductors loses a little to resistance. Together another 2–3%.
  • Downtime and snowinverter faults, grid outages and snow cover. Small in most places, not negligible in the north.

Orientation, tilt and the tyranny of shade

A south-facing roof at a tilt near the site’s latitude is the reference case, and everything else is measured against it. East or west facing costs roughly 15% of annual output — less than most people expect, and one reason east-west installations have become common where the roof gives no choice. North facing in the northern hemisphere costs around 35% and is rarely worth doing.

Shading is different in kind, not just degree. Because panels in a series string carry the same current, one shaded panel can drag down the entire string far out of proportion to the area shaded — the classic demonstration is a single chimney shadow costing a third of an array’s output on a plain string inverter. Module-level electronics, either DC optimisers or microinverters, largely solve this by letting each panel operate independently, and they are close to standard on US residential installations partly for this reason and partly because the National Electrical Code’s rapid-shutdown requirements effectively demand module-level control.

The practical point is that a shading estimate made by eye in July is worthless. The sun sits far lower in winter and shadows are much longer, so a roof that looks clear in summer can be shaded for hours a day in December. Any installer worth hiring will measure this with a shade analysis tool rather than guess at it.

What changed for US buyers in 2026

Section 25D of the tax code, the Residential Clean Energy Credit, gave homeowners 30% of the total installed cost of a solar system back as a federal tax credit — with no cap, making it by far the largest incentive in US residential solar. The One Big Beautiful Bill Act, enacted 4 July 2025, terminated it for property placed in service after 31 December 2025.

A system installed and commissioned in 2026 therefore receives no federal residential credit, regardless of when the contract was signed or the deposit paid. On the $25,200 system in the example above, the credit was worth $7,560, and its removal changes the economics of residential solar more than any market movement in the past decade.

One route remains open. The Section 48E commercial credit still applies to solar owned by a third party, which covers leases, power purchase agreements and prepaid arrangements — so a homeowner who does not own the system can still see the benefit passed through in the pricing. Whether that is a good deal is a separate question with a long history of mis-selling attached to it, and it deserves the same scrutiny as any twenty-year contract.

State credits, utility rebates and property-tax exemptions are untouched, and remain substantial in several states. Enter your cost net of those.

Why 100% offset is not automatically the right target

Sizing an array to cover exactly a year’s consumption feels like the natural answer, and under old-style net metering it usually was: every exported kilowatt-hour rolled back the meter at full retail value, so generation and consumption were interchangeable and only the annual total mattered.

That arrangement has been narrowing across the US. Successor tariffs — California’s NEM 3.0 being the most consequential example — pay export at a wholesale-derived rate that can be a fifth of the retail import price. Under those rules a kilowatt-hour you use as it is generated is worth several times one you export, and the economics shift from "how much do I generate" to "how much do I self-consume". That favours a somewhat smaller array, or the same array paired with a battery to shift midday generation into the evening.

The argument for oversizing runs the other way and is about the future rather than the tariff. Adding panels to an existing system is disproportionately expensive: the scaffolding, the permit, the interconnection application and the site visit all recur, and the inverter may not have headroom. A household likely to add an electric car, a heat pump or a heat pump water heater within a few years is usually better off building that capacity in at the start, when the marginal cost is a panel and a rail rather than a whole second project.

What this assumes, and where it stops

Assumptions

  • Peak sun hours are annual averages for a fixed array at a reasonable tilt. Regional values are representative rather than site-specific.
  • The derate factor is applied as a single flat multiplier across the year, matching the PVWatts convention of 14% total system losses.
  • Orientation factors are standard planning multipliers relative to an ideally oriented south-facing array, not a modelled azimuth calculation.
  • Roof area needed includes a flat 25% allowance over the panel glass area for fire setbacks, walkways, vents and obstructions.
  • Cost per watt is whatever you enter, before incentives. No federal tax credit is applied — 25D ended for property placed in service after 31 December 2025.

Limitations

  • This is an annual-energy calculation. It says nothing about the monthly or hourly match between generation and consumption, which under modern export tariffs is what actually determines the value of the system.
  • Regional peak sun hours can be wrong by 10% or more for a specific address. Run NREL PVWatts for your own coordinates, tilt and azimuth before committing money.
  • Shading is entered as a single annual percentage. Real shading varies by hour and season and interacts strongly with how the panels are wired, which a flat percentage cannot represent.
  • Panel degradation is not modelled. Output falls roughly 0.4–0.5% a year, so generation in year 25 is typically around 88% of year one.
  • Roof structural capacity, condition, remaining shingle life and local permitting are outside this calculation and any of them can rule out an otherwise well-sized array.

Common questions

How many solar panels do I need for a house?

For a typical US household using around 10,500 kWh a year with 400 W panels, somewhere between 15 and 25 panels depending almost entirely on location — about 15 in Arizona, about 25 in the Pacific Northwest for identical consumption. The calculator above works out your own figure from your usage, sun hours, orientation and shading.

What are peak sun hours?

The number of hours a day, on annual average, that a location receives solar energy equivalent to 1,000 watts per square metre — the intensity panels are rated at. It is a measure of energy, not of daylight: 4.7 peak sun hours might arrive across fourteen hours of weak winter light or six hours of strong summer sun, and the annual total is what matters for sizing.

Why can I not just divide my usage by the panel wattage?

Because a panel produces its rated wattage only under standard test conditions, which occur rarely. Real output is reduced by inverter losses, heat, soiling, mismatch, wiring and downtime — about 14% in total under the standard PVWatts assumption. Skipping that step undersizes an array by roughly a sixth, and skipping the orientation and shading factors as well can undersize it by a third.

Is there still a 30% federal solar tax credit in 2026?

Not for a system you own. The Section 25D Residential Clean Energy Credit was terminated for property placed in service after 31 December 2025, so a 2026 installation receives no federal residential credit regardless of when it was ordered. The Section 48E commercial credit still applies to third-party-owned systems such as leases and power purchase agreements, and state and utility incentives are unaffected.

Should I size for more than 100% of my usage?

Consider it if an electric car or a heat pump is likely within a few years, because adding panels later means paying again for permits, scaffolding, an interconnection application and a site visit. Consider the opposite if your utility pays a low export rate, since under those tariffs energy you export is worth far less than energy you use as it is generated, and a smaller array or a battery is the better buy.

Sources

Formula and content last reviewed on .

Results are estimates for information only, not professional advice.

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