Wood Movement Calculator
Work out how much a board will shrink and swell across the seasons using the Forest Products Laboratory coefficients, and what the joinery has to allow for.
How to use this calculator
- 1Pick the species and, more importantly, how the boards were sawn - flatsawn boards move about twice as much as quartersawn.
- 2Enter the full width the movement accumulates over: the whole glued-up top, not one board within it.
- 3Give the humidity your shop or house actually reaches in winter and in summer. A hygrometer costs very little and guessing here is the largest error in the whole calculation.
- 4Read the allowances table rather than the headline number. The movement figure is only useful once it is a slot length or a groove depth.
How the calculation works
C = (S / FSP) / (100 - S x (FSP - 10) / FSP)
Width at moisture content m = W_green x (1 - S x (FSP - m) / (100 x FSP))
Movement = Width(wet MC) - Width(dry MC)- C
- Dimensional change coefficient - the fraction of its width the board changes per 1% change in moisture content
- S
- Green-to-ovendry shrinkage for the direction that matters: tangential for flatsawn, radial for quartersawn
- FSP
- Fibre saturation point, the moisture content below which wood starts to move. 30% for most species
- m
- Moisture content, in percent, which the calculator gets from temperature and humidity when you do not measure it
The 10 in the coefficient equation is the reference moisture content the Forest Products Laboratory indexes to - the middle of the range wood lives at indoors. It is the whole difference between this and the arithmetic in the leaflets, which references the green dimension instead and consequently reads low.
This equation reproduces every one of the twelve published coefficients in FPL-RP-711 exactly: black cherry 0.00248, sugar maple 0.00353, black walnut 0.00274, coast Douglas-fir 0.00267, western redcedar 0.00234, and the rest.
Moisture content comes from the Hailwood-Horrobin sorption model in the form the Wood Handbook fits it, which is what generates the Handbook EMC table. At 70 F and 65% relative humidity it returns 12.0%, matching that table.
Length along the grain is ignored because longitudinal shrinkage is around 0.1% to 0.2% green to ovendry - a thousandth of an inch per foot per percent of moisture. It matters for engineered trusses and for reaction wood, and never for furniture.
Worked example
A 36 in red oak dining top in a heated house
- 1.Winter at 68 F and 30% relative humidity puts the wood at 6.2% moisture content; summer at 75 F and 70% puts it at 13.0%. That is a 6.8 point swing.
- 2.Flatsawn red oak shrinks 8.6% tangentially green to ovendry, at a fibre saturation point of 30%, so the coefficient is (8.6 / 30) / (100 - 8.6 x 20 / 30) = 0.00304 per 1% of moisture.
- 3.Across 36 in that is roughly 0.00304 x 36 x 6.8 = 0.74 in of movement.
- 4.Fixed at its centre line, each half of the top moves outward by half of that, so the fastener slots need to be about 1/2 in long.
Result: About 3/4 in of seasonal movement, needing 1/2 in fastener slots
The same top, quartersawn
- 1.Nothing changes except which shrinkage figure applies: quartersawn boards move radially, and red oak shrinks 4.0% radially against 8.6% tangentially.
- 2.The coefficient drops to (4.0 / 30) / (100 - 4.0 x 20 / 30) = 0.00137.
- 3.Over the same 36 in and the same 6.8 point swing, that is about 0.34 in.
- 4.Less than half the movement, from the same tree, in the same room - decided entirely at the lumber yard.
Result: About 1/3 in - well under half the flatsawn figure
A cherry frame-and-panel door
- 1.A 14 in wide panel in black cherry, which is one of the calmer cabinet woods: 7.1% tangential shrinkage giving a coefficient of 0.00248.
- 2.The house runs 35% relative humidity in winter and 65% in summer, so 6.9% to 11.9% moisture content - a 4.9 point swing.
- 3.14 x 0.00248 x 4.9 is about 0.17 in of movement across the panel.
- 4.Half of that, a shade over 3/32 in, has to disappear into each side of the groove, so the groove wants to be 13/32 in rather than the standard 3/8 in, and the panel gets cut about 5/32 in narrow of the full groove-to-groove measurement.
Result: About 3/16 in - needing a groove a shade deeper than the standard 3/8 in
Why wood moves, and why it never stops
Wood is a bundle of hollow cellulose tubes. When a tree is felled those tubes are full of liquid water and their walls are saturated. Drying removes the free water in the cavities first, and that costs the board nothing dimensionally - it gets lighter and not one bit smaller. Only when the cavities are empty and the cell walls themselves start giving up water does the wood begin to shrink. That crossover is the fibre saturation point, around 30% moisture content for most species.
Below it, the wood is hygroscopic: it exchanges moisture with the air around it until it reaches equilibrium, and then it keeps doing so forever, because the air keeps changing. A board is not a thing that dried once. It is a thing that is always partway between the last two seasons.
This is why the question "how do I stop my tabletop moving?" has no answer. Finish slows the exchange - a well-finished top might lag the room by weeks rather than days - but nothing available to a furniture maker stops it. The craft response, worked out over centuries and visible in every piece of antique furniture that survived, is not to resist the movement but to give it somewhere to go.
Flatsawn against quartersawn: the decision that matters most
Wood shrinks about twice as much around the growth rings as it does across them. The reason is structural: the dense latewood bands formed at the end of each growing season are stiffer than the earlywood, and as they shrink they drag the softer wood between them along, which compounds movement in the tangential direction while restraining it radially.
What this means at the bench is that how a board was cut out of the log matters more than which tree it came from. Flatsawn red oak moves 8.6% green to ovendry across its width; quartersawn red oak moves 4.0%. That is a bigger difference than between red oak and cherry, or between oak and pine.
It also explains cupping. A flatsawn board has rings that run roughly parallel to one face and curve towards the edges, so the face nearer the bark shrinks more than the face nearer the pith, and the board curls away from the heart. Quartersawn boards have the rings running edge to edge, so both faces shrink the same and the board stays flat - which is why quartersawn stock is worth its premium for wide panels, workbench tops and anything that has to stay true.
- Flatsawn — Cheapest yield from the log, the cathedral figure most people picture as wood grain, and roughly double the movement. Fine for narrow parts, risky for wide unsupported panels.
- Quartersawn — About half the movement, flat-staying, and shows ray fleck in oak. Costs more because the log yields less of it.
- Riftsawn — Rings at roughly 45 degrees. Movement between the two, and the straightest grain of the three - the reason it is chosen for table legs, where a consistent face on all four sides matters more than stability.
Designing for movement instead of against it
Every traditional joint that looks fussy is usually solving this problem. A floating panel in a grooved frame is not decoration; it is a panel free to change width inside a frame whose stiles are oriented so they barely change at all. Tabletop fasteners in slots, buttons in a groove, figure-eight fasteners - all the same idea, holding the top down firmly while letting it slide sideways.
The failures are equally consistent. A wide top screwed hard to an apron at both edges will split, because the wood is stronger than the screws are patient. A solid panel glued into its groove will either split itself or push the frame joints open. A breadboard end glued across its full width will crack somewhere in its first two winters. In each case the wood is not misbehaving; the joint simply forbade something that was always going to happen.
The practical sequence is: get the wood to the moisture content of the room it will live in before you cut joinery, calculate the range that room will actually swing through, and then size every cross-grain connection to swallow half the total on each side. Two or three weeks stickered in the destination room does more for a piece than any amount of care at the bench afterwards.
Where the numbers come from
The shrinkage percentages are from the USDA Forest Products Laboratory Wood Handbook, which has published green-to-ovendry values by species since 1935 and remains the reference the whole trade works from. The conversion into a per-percent coefficient is the equation given in FPL research paper RP-711, published in 2022, which is how the Laboratory computed the coefficients in the Handbook flooring chapter.
That paper matters because it settles a discrepancy woodworkers run into constantly. Extension leaflets and most online calculators use a simpler formula that references the green dimension, and it gives a smaller answer than the published coefficients do. Both are in print, both cite the Handbook, and they disagree. The reason is the reference point: shrinkage measured as a fraction of a green log understates the fraction of a dry board, and the Laboratory indexes at 10% moisture content because that is where furniture actually lives.
The moisture content itself comes from the Hailwood-Horrobin sorption model. It is the same equation the Handbook uses to generate its equilibrium moisture content table, so entering 70 degrees and 65% humidity returns 12.0% - the number in the book.
What this assumes, and where it stops
Assumptions
- Movement is calculated across the width only. Longitudinal shrinkage is real but around a hundredth of the cross-grain figure, and is ignored here as it is in the trade.
- The width you enter is taken as the width at the moisture content you build at, which defaults to the midpoint of the seasonal range unless you set it.
- Shrinkage is treated as linear in moisture content below the fibre saturation point and zero above it. That is the Forest Products Laboratory model and it is a good fit through the range furniture occupies.
- Species figures are averages. Individual boards vary around them, ordinarily by up to 20% and occasionally by more.
Limitations
- Plywood, MDF and other panel products are not solid wood and barely move across their faces. Do not use this page for them - the whole point of a sheet good is that its cross-plies cancel this out.
- Reaction wood - compression wood in softwoods, tension wood in hardwoods - moves very differently, particularly along the grain, and no species average predicts it.
- The sorption model is least accurate above about 90% relative humidity, where published equilibrium values themselves scatter. Furniture rarely lives there, but outdoor work does.
- Finishes change the rate at which wood reaches equilibrium, not the equilibrium it reaches. A film finish on all six surfaces can buy weeks of lag, which is worth having on a piece that moves between climates - but over a full year the wood gets where it was going.
- Fibre saturation point defaults to the Handbook assumption of 30% for most species. Extractive-rich tropical timbers run lower - teak here uses 18% - and a lower value means more movement per point of moisture, not less.
Common questions
Why is this number bigger than the one I got from another calculator?
Because most of them use the green-referenced arithmetic from extension leaflets: width x shrinkage / 100 x moisture change / 30. That measures shrinkage as a fraction of the dimension the board had when it was a wet log. This page uses the coefficients the Forest Products Laboratory publishes for the 6% to 14% band, which are referenced to a board at 10% moisture content and consequently come out 15% to 20% higher. Both are in print; the referenced one is the right one for furniture, and it is the safer error to make.
Does finishing the wood stop it moving?
No. A good film finish on every surface slows the exchange enough that the wood lags the room by weeks instead of days, which genuinely helps a piece survive being carried from a damp workshop into a dry house in January. Over a full year it reaches the same place. Finish is a rate control, not a barrier, and a piece finished on the show face only will move more on the unfinished side and cup for its trouble.
Should I build at the driest or the dampest time of year?
Neither - build at the middle, which is what this page assumes unless you tell it otherwise. Wood built at the midpoint splits its movement, swelling half the total in one direction and shrinking half in the other, so every allowance only has to be half as large. Fitting a drawer in midwinter guarantees it binds in August; fitting it in August means it rattles in January, which is the failure everyone would rather have.
What moisture content should I be buying lumber at?
For indoor furniture in most of the United States, 6% to 8%. Kiln-dried stock is usually sold around there, but it will have re-equilibrated to wherever it has been stored - a yard with an open-sided shed puts it back at 12% or more. The number that matters is not what it was kiln dried to, it is what it reads on a meter when you get it home, and then what it reads again after two or three weeks stickered in your shop.
How wide can a solid top be before I have to worry?
There is no width that is safe and none that is impossible - only widths whose movement your joinery does or does not accommodate. A 48 in flatsawn oak top in a house that swings 30% to 70% humidity will move around an inch, and that is entirely buildable with slotted fasteners and a breadboard end done properly. The same top screwed rigidly to an apron will split, at any width above about 8 in.
Sources
- Measurement and Practical Application of Tangential Dimensional Change Coefficients to Hardwood Flooring (FPL-RP-711) — USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory
- Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material (FPL-GTR-282), chapter 4 — USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory
- The Shrinking and Swelling of Wood and Its Effect on Furniture (FNR-163) — Purdue University Extension
Formula and content last reviewed on .
Results are estimates for information only, not professional advice.
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