Off-Grid Battery Bank Calculator
Size an off-grid or RV battery bank in amp-hours from your daily loads, days of autonomy, depth of discharge, round-trip losses and the temperature it will actually live at.
How to use this calculator
- 1List the loads honestly, and use duty-cycle averages for anything that cycles — a compressor fridge draws its rated watts perhaps half the time, not continuously.
- 2Mark which loads are native DC. They skip the inverter and cost the bank noticeably less.
- 3Choose days of autonomy from your weather, not your nerves. One to two suits a vehicle that moves and can charge from its alternator; a fixed cabin in a cloudy winter wants three to five.
- 4Enter the temperature the batteries will actually live at, not the outdoor low or the temperature of the shop you are building in.
- 5Compare the chemistry table before buying. The nameplate needed differs by more than a factor of two for identical real capacity.
How the calculation works
Daily Wh = Σ (DC watts x hours) + Σ (AC watts x hours ÷ inverter efficiency)
Energy over autonomy = daily Wh x days
Nameplate Wh = energy ÷ round-trip efficiency ÷ depth of discharge ÷ temperature factor
Temperature factor = 1 − (77°F − battery temperature) x loss per °F
Nameplate Ah = nameplate Wh ÷ system voltage- Depth of discharge
- How much of the nameplate you can routinely use — 50% for lead-acid, 80% or more for LiFePO4
- Round-trip efficiency
- Energy returned divided by energy stored: about 80% for flooded lead, 95% for LFP
- Temperature factor
- Capacity remaining at the working temperature. Lead-acid loses roughly 0.6% per °F below its 77°F rating point
- Inverter efficiency
- Applied only to AC loads. DC loads bypass the inverter entirely and avoid this loss
- System voltage
- 12, 24 or 48 V. Higher voltage means the same energy at proportionally fewer amp-hours and proportionally less current
The four multipliers compound rather than add. A flooded lead-acid bank at 40°F needs energy ÷ 0.80 ÷ 0.50 ÷ 0.78, which is 3.2 times the energy you intend to use. The same load on LiFePO4 at the same temperature needs about 1.4 times. That factor of more than two, not the shelf price, is the honest comparison.
AC loads are charged the inverter penalty and DC loads are not, which is why a 12 V compressor fridge and a 120 V one of the same rating are not the same load. On a small system, moving what you can to native DC is one of the cheapest capacity gains available.
Peukert losses — capacity falling as discharge current rises — are not applied here, because a bank sized for days of autonomy is by definition discharging slowly. They matter for short heavy loads, which is what the Battery Runtime Calculator handles.
Worked example
A van with a compressor fridge, lights, fan, pump and devices, on LiFePO4
- 1.DC loads: fridge 45 x 12 = 540 Wh, lights 20 x 5 = 100, fan 30 x 8 = 240, pump 60 x 0.5 = 30 — 910 Wh.
- 2.AC load: devices 45 x 4 = 180 Wh at the socket, but 180 ÷ 0.90 = 200 Wh from the bank.
- 3.Daily total: 1,110 Wh.
- 4.Over 2 days of autonomy: 2,220 Wh must come out of the bank.
- 5.Round trip at 95%: 2,337 Wh. Depth of discharge at 80%: 2,921 Wh.
- 6.At 50°F, LiFePO4 loses 27 x 0.2% = 5.4%, so divide by 0.946: 3,088 Wh of nameplate.
- 7.At 12 V that is 257 Ah — call it a 280 Ah battery, the common size just above it.
Result: 257 Ah at 12 V
Why the nameplate is never the number you get
A 100 amp-hour battery does not give you 100 amp-hours, and the gap is larger than almost anyone expects on their first build. Four separate deductions apply, and because they multiply rather than add, their combined effect is severe.
Depth of discharge is the largest. Lead-acid chemistry degrades rapidly if routinely taken below about half charge — a flooded battery cycled to 50% might manage 500 cycles, while the same battery cycled to 80% depth manages perhaps 200. The convention of treating lead-acid as 50% usable is not conservatism; it is the condition under which the manufacturer’s cycle life applies. Lithium iron phosphate changes this fundamentally, tolerating 80% depth and often more with cycle lives in the thousands.
Round-trip efficiency is the energy lost as heat pushing charge in and pulling it back out. Flooded lead-acid returns roughly 80% of what went in; LFP returns about 95%. On a solar system this compounds with everything upstream, because that lost 20% has to be collected by panels that cost money.
Temperature is the one people discover in their first winter. Battery capacity is rated at 77°F, and lead-acid loses roughly 0.6% for every degree below it — a fifth of the bank gone at 40°F, a third at 20°F. A cabin battery in an unheated crawlspace is not the battery that was bought.
Multiply them and the picture is stark. Flooded lead-acid at 40°F requires you to buy about 3.2 times the energy you plan to use. LiFePO4 at the same temperature requires about 1.4 times. Anyone comparing the two on price per nameplate amp-hour is comparing the wrong quantity by a factor of more than two.
Choosing days of autonomy
Autonomy is how long the system runs with no charging at all, and it is a weather and lifestyle question rather than an electrical one. Getting it wrong in either direction is expensive: too little and the system fails in the first bad week, too much and a great deal of money sits idle for years.
- One day — a van that drives most days and charges from its alternator, or a system with a generator that is genuinely willing to be run. The battery is buffering overnight rather than carrying the system.
- Two days — the usual choice for a van or small RV with solar. Covers a cloudy day and a night without drama, and assumes the vehicle moves or the sun returns.
- Three to five days — a fixed cabin with solar in a climate that has genuine cloudy stretches. This is where lead-acid banks become physically enormous and lithium starts to win on space and weight as well as cost.
- More than five — rarely the right answer with solar. Beyond about five days it is almost always cheaper to add generation — more panels, or a generator — than to add storage, because panels are cheap and batteries are not.
Twelve, twenty-four or forty-eight volts
System voltage is chosen once and constrains everything afterwards, and the argument turns on a single relationship: power is volts times amps, so the same power at a higher voltage means proportionally less current.
A 3,000 watt inverter at 12 volts draws about 250 amps from the battery at full output — which needs 4/0 cable, a 300 amp fuse, and lugs the size of a thumb. The same inverter at 48 volts draws about 63 amps and runs happily on 4 AWG. The copper alone can differ by hundreds of dollars, and the voltage drop problem largely disappears.
Against that, 12 volts is the native voltage of the entire recreational vehicle and marine accessory market. Fridges, fans, pumps, lights, USB outlets and chargers are all available in 12 volt form and mostly not in 48. A 48 volt system needs a DC-DC converter to feed a 12 volt accessory bus, which is another component and another conversion loss.
The rough division in practice: 12 volts for vans and small RVs where accessory availability dominates and total power is modest; 24 volts for larger rigs and small cabins; 48 volts for house-scale off-grid, where the loads are big enough that copper cost decides it. Anything with an inverter above about 3,000 watts should be looking hard at 48.
Lead-acid against lithium, honestly
The comparison is frequently made badly in both directions, so it is worth setting out what actually differs.
Lithium iron phosphate wins on usable capacity per nameplate amp-hour (80% against 50%), on round-trip efficiency (95% against 80%), on cycle life by a factor of five or more, on weight by roughly half, on charge acceptance — LFP will take charge as fast as you can supply it, where lead-acid tapers badly in its absorption phase — and on the absence of maintenance. Combined, a 100 Ah LFP battery does the work of roughly 200 to 250 Ah of lead-acid, several times over.
Lead-acid wins on purchase price per nameplate amp-hour, on tolerance of cold charging, on the simplicity of the charging equipment, and on the fact that a dead lead-acid battery can be replaced at any auto parts store anywhere. It also fails gracefully rather than shutting off abruptly when its battery management system decides to protect it.
The cold-charging point deserves emphasis because it is a genuine safety and longevity issue rather than a preference. Charging a lithium iron phosphate cell below freezing plates metallic lithium onto the anode, which is permanent and can eventually cause an internal short. Batteries with a low-temperature cutoff in the BMS, or with internal heating, exist precisely for this and are what any cold-climate installation needs.
For most builds the arithmetic now favours lithium clearly on cost per usable cycle. Lead-acid remains sensible for a system used a few weekends a year, where cycle life will never be reached and the lower purchase price dominates.
The load list is where builds go wrong
Sizing errors in off-grid systems are overwhelmingly load-estimation errors rather than battery-arithmetic errors, and they run in one direction.
The reliable method is a shunt-based battery monitor and a week of living with the system, which gives real amp-hours consumed rather than an estimate. Failing that, a cheap inline watt-meter on individual circuits will settle the arguments about the fridge.
Two categories mislead consistently. Cycling loads — fridges, water pumps, heater fans — draw their rated power only part of the time, so using the nameplate overstates them substantially; use a duty-cycle average instead. And parasitic loads — the inverter’s own idle draw, a battery monitor, a propane detector, an always-on charge controller — are individually trivial and collectively significant. An inverter left switched on with nothing plugged in can consume 20 to 40 watts continuously, which over a day is comparable to the fridge.
The other trap is scope creep after the fact. A system sized before the owner adds satellite internet, an induction hob or a rooftop air conditioner is a system that will disappoint, and retrofitting battery capacity is far more expensive than including it at the start. If any of those are plausible within a couple of years, size for them now.
What this assumes, and where it stops
Assumptions
- Loads run at the average watts entered for the hours entered, every day of the autonomy period.
- Inverter efficiency is applied only to AC loads; DC loads draw directly from the bank.
- Depth of discharge, round-trip efficiency and temperature factor are applied as flat multipliers on nameplate capacity.
- Temperature capacity loss is linear below 77°F at the chemistry’s own rate, and no credit is taken above it.
- Peukert losses are not applied, on the basis that a bank sized for days of autonomy discharges slowly.
Limitations
- The result assumes no charging at all during the autonomy period. A system with solar or an alternator will do considerably better than this on most days and exactly this on the bad ones.
- Battery capacity degrades over life. A bank sized exactly today will fall short in five years, and lead-acid degrades faster than lithium.
- Inverter idle consumption is not modelled separately. Add it to the "anything else" field — 20 to 40 W continuous is typical for a large inverter left switched on.
- Charge acceptance is not modelled. Lead-acid tapers badly in absorption and can take many hours to reach full even with abundant solar, which effectively reduces usable capacity in a way this calculation does not capture.
- Nothing here covers fusing, disconnects, battery management systems or ventilation, all of which are safety requirements rather than optimisations.
Common questions
How many amp hours do I need for my van or RV?
For a typical van with a compressor fridge, lights, a fan, a water pump and device charging — about 1,100 watt-hours a day — two days of autonomy on LiFePO4 works out around 250 to 300 amp-hours at 12 volts. The same real autonomy in lead-acid needs roughly double that nameplate, because you can only use half of it.
Why can I only use half of a lead-acid battery?
Because cycle life collapses if you go deeper. A flooded lead-acid battery cycled to 50% depth might deliver 500 cycles; the same battery cycled to 80% might manage 200. The 50% convention is the condition under which the manufacturer’s cycle rating applies, not excessive caution. LiFePO4 tolerates 80% or more with cycle lives in the thousands.
How much capacity does cold weather cost?
Lead-acid loses roughly 0.6% of its capacity for every degree Fahrenheit below the 77°F rating point — about 20% at 40°F and a third at 20°F. LiFePO4 holds up far better on discharge, but it must not be charged below freezing at all, because that permanently damages the cells. Insulating or heating the battery box is usually cheaper than buying the extra capacity.
Should I build a 12 V, 24 V or 48 V system?
Twelve volts for vans and small RVs, where the entire accessory market is 12 V and total power is modest. Forty-eight for house-scale off-grid, where a 3,000 watt inverter draws 63 amps instead of 250 and the cable cost difference runs into hundreds of dollars. Twenty-four sits in between. Anything with an inverter above about 3,000 watts should seriously consider 48.
Is lithium worth the extra cost over AGM?
For a system used regularly, almost always. LiFePO4 gives 80% usable against 50%, 95% round-trip against 85%, five times the cycle life and half the weight — so a 100 Ah lithium battery does the work of 200 to 250 Ah of AGM, several times over. AGM still makes sense for a system used a few weekends a year, where the cycle life will never be reached.
Sources
- Solar electric system design and off-grid basics — US Department of Energy
- Home energy storage — US Department of Energy
- Battery basics and battery types — US Department of Energy
- Estimating appliance and home electronic energy use — US Department of Energy
Formula and content last reviewed on .
Results are estimates for information only, not professional advice.
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